Vietnam

23 Aug - 13 Sep 2005
1
Well here we are in Vietnam. Arrived on Monday and will be here for three weeks. We are basing ourselves in Hanoi and have been acclimitising ourselves - it is another world!!

Our arrival in Hanoi was not without incident. I think we made an error in the time we told the hotel (which we had booked on the internet) to pick us up so we ended up in a taxi. On arrival a fellow from the hotel poked his head in the door and told us our room was occupied by a sick person whom they had been unable to move so we would have to stay at this hotel – a related one. He kept flashing cards from our booked hotel and explaining that it had changed names! Fortunately Kate had read about this particular scam in Lonely Planet and after ten minutes of heated (on our part!) discussion we eventually insisted that the taxi driver take us to our booked hotel. Of course our hotel had our booking and was wondering where we were as their driver was at the airport! I live in wonder to this woman I am married to - I would probably have ended up in the scam hotel!

It has been an interesting cultural experience to cope with Hanoi. Stepping onto the street is frightening at first. We are based in the old quarter and stepping out of the hotel we are immediately "in it". The footpaths and narrow streets are crowded with motor bikes, mini kitchens, pedicabs, motorbikes, pedestrians, motorbikes, women carrying the traditional baskets supported by a wooden bouncy rod over the shoulder (amazing the weight they >carry), motorbikes, hawkers of all sorts, motorbikes, cyclists, motorbikes etc... A lot of the time you have to walk on the road and there is a constant stream of motorbikes, bikes and people passing or overtaking you.

I am fascinated by the traffic. On the major roads there is just a wall of motorbikes loaded with 1-4 people, baskets of food, produce of varying sorts, beds, mattresses, furniture, you name it you will see it on a motorbike. The only way to cross the road is to walk forward with confidence into the wall of bikes (and occasional cars, trucks and buses) keeping an eye on the traffic as you do so. Magically the motorbikes part to give you room, not much, but after a while you get used to it! It is extraordinary and has to be seen to be believed!! Noone gets agro, they just make space and move on. Watching it from the edge of the road is nothing short of mind boggling. In Australia, if the same thing happened as here you would be able to measure road range by the square metre!! But here they just weave around someone doing anything stupid (in my mind anyway!). There are millions and millions of motorbikes - all about 125 ccs and travelling at no more than about 40 kph, usually much less.

So we have been getting used to moving around and shopping. We have been stitched up a number of times but the people are so nice and we are so affluent by comparison that we just love it. Kate cannot resist interacting with them at every level. Consequently we have enough post cards to write to everyone we know for the next year or so - warning here - don't expect one as buying does not mean writing!!

Yesterday we took a tour of four villages which specialised in pottery, woodwork, silk weaving and noodle production. It was fascinating - they are certainly an industrious people. In the wood village we were told that a lot of the timber comes from outside Vietnam usually imported from illegal operations in neighbouring countries. Nothing goes to waste however – every bit of timber is used in some way. We saw a stack of stumps which would be burnt in Australia being used as a valuable resource for carvings of every shape and size. Mostly the markets for the produce seem to be local or Asian as the ornate style would only be found in Franco Costas furniture business in Melbourne's Brunswick otherwise!
We were able to watch the making of pottery from the ground up and both Kate and Julia (who is also with us) were unable to resist buying some examples. (Kate has had some foresight here - she purchased a Tosca case at an OP shop for $25 which expands into probably double its compacted size and will take two very strong men to lift, once she fills it - this won't take long on >present indications!!).

At the silk village we watched women using ancient (well they looked that way) wooden weaving machines (electrically powered) to make silk fabrics. The factory was noisy and dark but the amazing fabrics being produced were wondrous! Needless to say we left the village with some packages!

Julia has caught up with Leah and her son Lewis as well as Leah's parents and brother who are also here at this time. We had dinner within the Australian embassy compound where Leah lives in the lap of Australian luxury! Her cook had prepared a sumptous banquet for us so we had a great introduction to Vietnamese cooking.

Yesterday morning we decided to get up early and go for a run - we thought that at 5.30 we wouldn't find too many people about. We were half right. The streets were relatively bare of the ever present motorbikes but when we got to the lake we found a great stream of locals out for their constitutional walk, exercise class, fan dance, badminton match etc. We had to run along the road!! Needless after two laps of the lake which took about 20 minutes we had had it - the humidity is stiffling and more than we could cope with!

I am having trouble coping with the local currency. Yesterday I was a millionaire as I withdrew 1 000 000 dong from our account. 10 000 dong corresponds to $1 Australian - actually it is probably closer to 12 000 but for ease of calculation we are using 10 000. So every time you make a purchase you need to knock off four noughts to get an idea of what you are paying. The problem is that they also deal in American dollars so some prices are in dong and others in $US. So you cash some $US for dong and think you have plenty of money and next thing you are paying in the thousands of dongs for something and before you know it you have nothing left. You pay 36 000 dong for a meal and think you are paying a fortune but it is only $3.60. Confused?? Well so am I! Yesterday we went into a flash restaurant and looked at the menu. We thought it looked very reasonable in price until we realised they were in $US - tails between our legs we snuck out!! But overall it is a very cheap place to visit - the food is great no matter where you buy it.

Today it is bucketting down with rain so we are resting this morning and hoping it will ease later. Kate has had her touch of the "runs" but has not felt ill, Julia the same. I am usually the first to succumb to this affliction but so far so good!

We have booked a couple of trips out of the city but more of that later.

2
Thought I would email you sooner than this but after typing for 35 minutes at our hotel in Hanoi I lost the lot! Frustrating!! So I will try and remember what I typed and see if this computer in Sapa is any better.
Since our last email we have all had the "runs", Kate's persisting longer than Julia and me. I don't think we are completely out of the woods yet as every now and then we all get a tummy rumble which threatens to turn into something worse. Kate was quite sick and we had to curtail our activities for a couple of days.

Despite this we have been enjoying the sights and sounds of Hanoi. In addition we have had a three day trip to Halong Bay. According to Lonely Planet this bay is the number natural wonder in Vietnam and has world heritage listing. The bay is dotted with over 3000 steeply sided limestone islands some of which have caves of considerable size.

On our first day we left the traffic of Hanoi behind and travelled along a freeway - well at least that is how it would look from the air. The reality is that it is a very bumpy concrete road - don't think they used much reinforcing in it or did much of a job of compacting the area before bridges. The traffic is still fairly dense with motorbikes occupying the right hand lane (left in Australia) whilst trucks, buses and cars the left. You are in no doubt of when a following bus or truck wants to pass as there is a blast of sound from behind which rises to a continuous noise if you don't move over. Moving over is not always easy as the motorbikes are not moving as quickly so the driver has to find a hole in the traffic to move over. The public buses are the worst as they travel fast. We were told they are paid on contract and are responsible for many of the over 12000 deaths on the roads every year.

On reaching Halong Bay we were escorted to our vessel - one of 50 or so highly polished wooden vessels which owe some design characteristics to junks. They have a couple of coloured decorative sails which are raised for effect at the first stop after a sumptous lunch. This was at one of the islands which have a cave system open to the public. If you have been to Buchan or Jenolan caves you have probably seen it all. It seems to be a compulsory stop for all the tours so there were hundreds of people crowded into a fairly confined hot, humid cave system so it was a relief to get back to our boat.

I didn't mention that our multicultural party consisted of a French couple, a French Canadian woman, a Malaysian, an Australian couple from Fitzroy in Melbourne, two recently graduated law students from New York, ourselves and an English speaking Vietnamese guide. The vessel had a crew of five Vietnamese who provided us with fantastic meals and really looked after us.

After travelling for ten minutes after the caves we stopped for the night and it was over the side for a refreshing swim. The water temperature is only just refreshing however as it is very warm and easy to get in.
Next day we cruised further through a fantastic maze of islands and past the locals who lived on floating islands and fished in basket boats. These are interesting craft made from woven cane sealed with a bitumenous substance. They are powered by oars or a noisy whipper snipper-like arrangement poking out the back. An additional source of income is provided by servicing the needs of the on board tourists - a bit like having a roadside stall on the water. They are amazingly able seapersons! Their villages are like floating docks made from wood and plastic drums for buoyancy. They can be 20x20 metres or so in size.

Mid morning we arrived at "base camp" which consisted of cane huts equipped with, light, fan, mosquito net and the thinnest mattress you could imagine. After dropping our bags we were immediately into preparing for our kayaking trip. After basic instructions we were off in double sea kayaks paddling to who knows where behind our instructor. The scenery was fantastic and this is definitely the way to explore this bay - not that we saw a great deal of it as it is so huge! Unfortunately we had a windy day so some of our party struggled with the conditions. By lunchtime they had all had enough. Our lunch stop was on a boat and after a lovely swim in slightly cooler water (thank goodness) we lounged around eating a very nice Vietnamese meal.

Kate had been suffering on the boat in the morning and had had to be pursuaded to come on the kayaking trip. She used this excuse to avoid any serious work with the paddle so the captain had to descend to the engine room and provide the motive power. By lunchtime she was beginning to feel better but was cautious with the food. She seemed to feel better in the water so after lunch she and Julia decided to explore an enclosed lake which was accessed through a shallow cave. Unfortunately it was about 500 metres from the boat so I had to follow. We surprised ourselves in how we swam - didn't expect to enjoy it after being out of serious training in the pool for over 18 months. Julia managed to get there but had to sponge a lift back with the guide who followed us in one of the kayaks. She had swum well however.

Back on the boat the vote was to ride the boat back to base camp and not kayak. Shame really but everyone was buggered after the paddle against the wind before lunch. The rest of the day was whiled away talking and swimming. At dark they started the generator and we could use the light and fan in the huts. After a pleasant meal and a few beers it was off to bed early for a rather uncomfortable night.

Next day it was back onto the big boat and back to Halong Bay town after a swim. We were treated to a fantastic lunch in a flash restaurant accompanied by live Vietnamese music. We could probably do without the music but it was interesting to see the traditional instruments being played. Three and a half hours later we were back in Hanoi. An interesting sidelight - have you ever seen a fully grown pig strapped upside down across the pillion seat of a Honda stepthrough? I have the photo to prove it - don't think the RSPCA would approve!!

After a day in the frantic Hanoi we took the overnight train to north western Vietnam and a bus trip finds us here at Sapa. Will write later about this as I am worried about loosing this again!

3
We are back in Hanoi at 0600 hrs after travelling on the overnight train from Lao Cai. We had to wake the porter up at our hotel and we cannot get into our room till later this morning. Fortunately they have free internet and this morning it seems to be working well - I have got used to the page only half loading and the links having errors!

Lao Cai is only significant in that it is where you get off the train to go to Sapa, from where I wrote the last email. Obviously we had travelled to Lao Cai on the train from Hanoi a few days earlier, overnight again. We got stitched at the train station when leaving Hanoi by a bloke who immediately grabbed our bags as we got out of the taxi and proceeded to lead us through the crowds of people in the direction of the train. He took us along the platform and across the tracks to our train and got us to our cabin then extracted $4 from us which is what the taxi cost to get us from the hotel. Whilst we were angry at being "stitched" again we were grateful to get on the train as the signs are all in Vietnamese and we would have been very concerned that we would be late. We need't have worried - the train didn't leave for another 45 minutes and on time to the second.
We got a four berth cabin and paid for the extra berth to ensure our privacy, money well spent we think! It was very pleasant to get into the nice air conditioned cabin but we didn't get a very restful sleep as the tracks are very rough and so is the ride. At Lao Cai we unloaded at 0700 hrs and amongst the crowds of people we saw a welcome sign reading Kate Crowe. The hotel at Sapa were providing us with transfer from the train to Sapa so we dutifully followed our man to an ancient "people carrier" for the one hour journey to Sapa.

I should say that Sapa is in the north west of northern Vietnam and is not far from the Chinese border. In fact Lao Cai is only two kms from the border. We thought we should step over the border just to say we had been there but we neither had the time nor appropriate visa.
When we departed the station our ancient vehicle had 13 people and a fair bit of cargo aboard. We didn't think this was a great problem until we started the 35 km climb to Sapa. This would be a great road for a stage of the Tour de France. In quite a number of sections there are signs saying the road rose at 10%. Mostly it climbed steadily and unrelentingly at something less but still soul destroying for a cyclist. Our ancient vehicle apparently thought the same as it gave up the ghost after making some rather nasty noises about half way to Sapa. After several minutes of looking enquiringly under the front seats the driver unloaded the freight hoping his ancient vehicle might recognise its burden was relieved. Apparently not so as it refused to start.

With the usual casual efficiency a passing more modern vehicle was waved down and we were all loaded aboard to continue, thankfully without further incident.

The reason for going to Sapa was to visit the colourfully dressed hill tribe villages and we were not disappointed. There were many members walking on the roadside in their black tunics and leggings which are colourfully embroidered. As soon as we alighted we were besieged by women and children who tried to sell us all sorts of clothing and jewelry.
Cat Cat hotel sprawls up the side of a steep hill and we were of course on the top floor. The view was stunning but we were a bit puffed to enjoy it at first!

Once again Kate engaged with the locals as soon as we left the hotel for a walk around town and soon had five or six followers much to Julia and my disgust. They are very persistent once you have started a conversation. Two women must have followed us for a couple of kilometres in the afternoon when we decided to visit Cat Cat village. It was a 2-3 kilometre walk down to the village - it seemed a lot longer coming back in the humidity. Fortunately there was a very pleasant restaurant in the hotel with modest charges so we had a very pleasant meal there at night including a 1996 Bourdeau red for about $10. I don't think Kate could believe the price but then again we were sure it wasn't one of the best from that region! Wine is generally very expensive in Vietnam and the cellaring in this warm climate is probably questionable.

Next day (yesterday) we went on a mountain bike ride whose degree of difficulty was supposedly intermediate. The bikes were probably originally quite reasonable quality but lacked proper maintenance - the main problem was stiff brakes. Seeing we were descending for over 30 km this became quite important. The first part was down a smooth bitumen road and all went well. Then we turned onto a wet dirt track with numerous rocks to add a further challenge. We stumbled our way down hoping that when we got to the valley floor things would imporve. Alas we were disappointed!

The trip was to take us through three different tribes areas and villages. The first was the poorest and was a bit depressing. They mainly depend on growing rice, corn and increasingly, the tourist trade. Apart from this they live a traditional life and have as yet spurned modern medicine and schooling. Despite this some of the children were able to speak excellent English apparently by interacting with tourists. The second village was one where the women wore elaborate, colourful headresses. They placed emphasis on education and the benefits were obvious as the standard of living was much higher.

We next had to climb out of the valley floor back to the main road and this is where we had to work! Julia has benefited greatly from her riding to work as she challenged Kate for the King of the Mountain title at the top!! Unfortunately for her a cunning sprint from her mother relegated her to second place, not by much though! After lunch we again descended into a much deeper valley - I think it took us nearly 40 minutes to get down. The track was wet and rough in places and the recent rains had caused major landslides across the track. At the bottom the village inhabitants were of Thai origin and the housing was of a yet higher standard. We were to swim in a nearby lake but after seeing how the river was used upstream we declined the offer.

To get out, our bikes were strapped to the back of motorbikes and taken to the top. We followed on the back of motor bikes to a spot where an old Landcruiser awaited us. The driver had managed to get over the massive landslide which surprised us. There was no way we were going to go over it so we got out at the appropriate time and watched him manoeuvre the vehicle over. After a couple of attempts he made it but we were glad we were not aboard!!

The rest of the trip was reasonably uneventful and as we descended down the road to Lao Cai in the gathering dusk we marvelled at the amazing terracing of the hills which enabled rice growing in metre-wide strips down fairly steep slopes. Erosion from landslides is obviously a major problem and restoration of trees planted appropriately may help prevent some of this. To me it looks unsustainable in the long term.
So it is a day in Hanoi then off again - more next time.

4
Today we leave for home after nearly three weeks. Over the past week we have been mostly at Hoi An which is near Dar Nang, about an hour's flight south of here (Hanoi). The reason for going there was that it is on the seaside and, more importantly, the home of the Vietnamese tailor (at least that is how it seems to me!).

Kate and Julia have been having a ball buying clothes, actually having them tailor-made. Julia has had two very smart suits made and other pants and tops. Kate has been hard at it as well and I have lost count of how many items she has had made - I need to say they were not all for herself!! So we have been backwards and forwards to the tailors measuring, getting fitted and finally purchasing. They have both been having a ball!

My dream of having a dozen cycling shirts made for about $10 each has been dashed unfortunately. Whilst they are more than happy to tailor them the material appears to be unavailable in either Hoi An or in Hanoi. I guess material that hugs you is hardly appropriate in this climate!

We did take a trip to some old Cham ruins near Hoi An called My Son. This is the site of a very old civilisation and although not as well preserved or restored as many other similar historical sites it does show great cultural depth in the Cham society which still exists today. Unfortunately it was suspected of being a Viet Cong stronghold in the Vietnamese war and was bombed by the US - the craters are still visible near a number of the remaining buildings. Apparently prior to the bombing there were many more buildings in good condition.

We also journeyed to the beach by bicycle but were disappointed. The ocean was heavily polluted and, whilst we could have put up with that, it was very warm. So warm that it was hardly refreshing at all. The water in the hotel pool was also tepid and barely refreshing - we did lash out a bit here with a four star hotel including breakfast!!

We said goodbye to Julia on Sunday and she should be in London by now, hopefully catching up with Ben in the next day or so. It was very sad to see her leave as she is a great companion on holidays and we won't see her for four months as she has work in London. Kate in particular has lost a great shopping partner, a role I am afraid I fall well short of!!

In general everything is very cheap here depending on where you go. It is possible to spend a huge amount on accommodation if you wish to stay in the lavish hotels found in every capital city in the world - $200-300 a night. But if you are prepared to drop the standard and stay in cheaper accommodation, as we have, then you can get clean, air conditioned rooms for about $20 a night. Food is also very cheap with a good meal obtainable for both of us for less than $20, often $15. But despite this I still can't get used to forking out 200 000 dong (about $16) for anything - I just seems like a lot of money!!

We will be glad to leave Hanoi despite enjoying it immensely. It is very close living and it is very hard to find a peaceful spot - hence the need to return to our air conditioned room. Possibly we have come at the wrong time of the year as we have found the combination of heat and humidity quite trying. Despite all these woes we have loved the people. You can always get a smile and they are invariably good humoured and extremely tolerant of others. I still can't believe the way the traffic works here! No sign of aggression and amazing forebearance of, what seems to me, others stupidity. Australian drivers could learn a lot!

So it is off to the airport at 3 pm laden with bags. Fortunately we have found our baggage limit is 32 kg so we should be okay!! See you all on our return.