On the Road Again - Trip to Centre

26 Apr - 24 Jun 2005

1.

We are back on the road again and will send the odd email but not as regularly as last time. This trip is to the centre and we are currently in Alice Springs.

We left after the Anzac weekend in April after a lovely weekend with Ben and Jenny, and Julia. Ben and Jenny left yesterday to fly to the UK so that Jenny could do her Masters in literature at Glascow University. Lovely weekend but very sad!

We hightailed it up the coast stopping a couple of days at Tuncurry then at Iluca before arriving at Therese's place on the Gold Coast. We spent the next few days helping Therese with a few home improvements. Then it was on to Nambour to get our TV fixed and a few days at Tewantin. We caught up with work colleagues Rob and Pamela Lockwood and heard all the gossip from my work. One thing to say - I am very glad I left when I did as things have gone from bad to worse!!

Then on to Gympie for a delightful couple of days with Paul, Liz and Conor Ryan. We watched Conor star as the goal keeper in his football (soccer) team on Saturday morning before heading for Toowoomba to meet Fred and Heather Allsop for the start of the Allsop Central Australian Tour!!

We then began our run into new territory for us - central and western Queensland on Sunday 8 May travelling to Augathala. The busy east coast was gradually left behind although the amount of traffic on the road surprised us. After about 600 km we were glad to set up camp on the only bit of green grass for the past 300 km. Meeting us there were Jim and Gail Cruden who had sprinted up the middle to join us. Jim had recently had surgery and had not expected to recover so quickly so it was a surprise to have them join us.

Next day we left a little earlier than the others as we were towing so could not travel as fast. We met at lunchtime at Longreach and spent the afternoon looking over the Stockmans' Hall of Fame. I guess we are a little spoilt in Canberra as we felt that a bit of the impact of this worthy museum's thunder has been stolen by the National Museum in Canberra. It is still a great place to visit particularly if you have an interest in the famous names in both exploration and agriculture.

After overnighting just outside Longreach at a roadside camp we headed on to Boulia. We were now travelling in more remote country and were treated to a magnificent desert storm. The skies at times were black with heavy cloud and we eventually were driving through very heavy rain. The creeks and dry river beds gradually filled up and we had to drive through water on a number of causeways. Visibility was less than 50 metres at times. Eventually we came out the other side and the only problem then was to pass other vehicles as dropping a wheel off the one-lane bitumen strip meant sinking into a muddy verge. Further on it hadn't rained and we had a dry night beside the road near the end of the bitumen on the road to the NT border.

Next day we travelled to Tobamorey Station along typical beef roads with lots of corrugations and red dust. The road wasn't too bad but it was nice to pull into the camping area at the cattle station and set up on some green grass. By a happy coincidence they were doing their annual muster and at dusk the mustering helicopter swept low over the trees and landed right next to the camping area.

Next morning we watched cattle being drafted and loaded onto three trailer roadtrains. This is all done from one loading point with the top deck loaded via an internal lowered deck on the first trailer. Cattle are then driven the length of the three trailers via joining ramps between the three trailers. When the top is loaded the front half of the first trailer is raised and cattle are loaded onto the lower deck. It wasn't long before the three roadtrains were loaded and 450-500 cattle were on the road to the station's feedlot somewhere in Queensland. One of the neighbour's cattle which was not loaded on the trucks was a huge bull which stood head and shoulders over the rest of the cattle - it must have been over 1.8 m at the shoulder. We couldn't believe the size of it!

The road deteriorated after the cattle station and we were at times down to 30 kph driving through deep patches of bulldust. I think we travelled about 250 km before camping at a fantastic area off the road. Fred and Heather found it by following a track off the road running into a family group of aborigines who were roasting two kangaroos over a fire. They saw no problem in us camping nearby and we set up about a kilometre off the road with a backdrop of spectacular hills of broken rocks. After the previous night when the station generator disturbed all of our sleep the contrast was amazing. Not a light to be seen or a sound to be heard other than the wind all night! We had a lovely meal using the open fire to cook over with the camp ovens - in our case fish and roasted vegetables!

As we breakfasted next morning we were treated to a couple of large wedge tailed eagles landing on the rocks above us and some kangaroos/wallabies grazing there as well. But the highlight was a large dingo which was chasing a kangaroo over the rocks until he spied us. He then spent the next hour watching us from his rocky perch before eventually tiring and disappearing over the the hill. A fantastic spot!

After some more rough road we eventually met the graders who were working on the road. And bliss after the smooth graded road we found the bitumen and 150 km later Alice Springs. After washing, resupplying and recovering yesterday we went to the Desert Park today. This is a fantastic place for anyone interested in the deserts and particularly to bird watchers. They have a number of avairies which blend into the background bush and allow you to see close up birds that are difficult to get close to in the bush. In addition they have a large nocturnal house in which are many animals which are not generally seen by the public. Many are endangered due to predation by cats and competition from rabbits.

Well that is it so far. Tomorrow we head up the Tanami Track for a couple of hundred kilometres to the bird sanctuary at Newhaven then back to the West Macdonnell Ranges before returning to Alice. More then!

2.
Last time I think we were about to leave Alice Springs and now we are back and about to leave for Hermannsberg, Palm Valley, Finke Gorge, Uluru and the Olgas.

After Alice last time we headed North West on the Tannami Track and just beyond the end of the bitumen overnighted at Tilmouth Well. This was the last bit of grass our campers were going to see for a while. Fortunately the ever present sound of the generator so common in the outback was a fairly distant humm. So the evening around the campfire was very pleasant with a glorious star filled night sky above.

Next day we turned west 20 odd km from Tilmouth onto a lesser used road which, after about 150 km brought us to Newhaven. The road was rough and sandy in parts and the highlight was the close sighing of three large camels. They were used to cars as they waited as each car stopped took the obligatory photo and moved on.

Newhaven is owned by Birds Australia and was bought with public subscriptions and help from the Natural Heritage Trust. It measures 80 by 20 km and was relatively undergrazed because of the underdevepopment of bores for watering cattle. We were told cattle will only move 5-8 km if not in good condition so this dictates how close the bores must be. The property has been destocked of cattle but still carries a large population of camels.

So after being welcomed by the voluntary rangers we set up our dusty camp and settled in. The bird life we observed over the next couple of days was interesting but not as prolific as one would expect on such a reserve. This was probably due to the low rainfall over the past six months.

We followed a number of the suggested routes over the tracks on the property and on the first day climbed to the top of a classic mesa. We found our way up there by climbing up a 15 metre gully in what was otherwise a continuous cliff. When we got to the top we both felt a little uneasy as the rocks at the edge looked rather precarious - the view however was fantastic. Some of the area we passed through on this day was recently burnt in a very hot fire (lightning strikes are not uncommon) and reminded us of the aftermath of the Canberra fires.

Having passed through hundreds of kilometres of grazed desert or dry savannah it was interesting to see how such country looked without cattle. The vegetation seemed far more diverse and healthy despite the low rainfall. In a lot of areas, particularly around the bores, cattle graze everything other than spinifex to the ground. Some places have much higher stocking rates than others.

Next day we came upon a herd? of 13 camels who quietly observed us until approached closer than their area of comfort. They then began to walk off and as we drove closer broke into a gallop. They are an amazing sight and seem to fit into the desert - the truth is they are a curse and are increasing at more than 10% per year. The camels we saw looked in excellent condition and seemed massive in size - much larger than the ones we have previously seen in captivity. Perhaps this was an illusion but they look magnificent in the wild.

Another interesting feature of camels that you are dying to know about is their dung! I know you can't wait to find out!! We first came across it at Tilmouth Well and it looks like slightly oversized kangaroo droppings - we had no idea what it was then despite me being the proud owner of "Scats and Tracks", a book I got for my birthday. Obviously camels are great at conserving water and this minute droppings (compared to the size of the animal) are quite dry. They seem to be able to extract every drop of water out of them.

Next day after listening to howling dingos in the early morning we headed back to Tilmouth Well, overnighting there then heading for the west Macdonnell Ranges next morning. The road was fairly horrendous. Most of the local aborigines travel this country this area in two wheel drive cars and when they break down are left at the roadside, usually turned upside down like dead insects. We counted about fifteen during this day. The highlight of the day was passing by Haasts Bluff which rises out of the flat country spectacularly. It is on Aboriginal land so we were unable to do any walks near it but it is part of what was becoming very interesting landscape.

We drove further along to see more hills and mountains which looked familiar to us - most Australians who have seen Namajira paintings would probably feel likewise as this was his land. His paintings have definitely not overdramatised the landscape - it is stunning!!

We stopped for lunch at Tylers Pass which overlooks Goose Bluff. This is a large rocky outcrop sticking up from the nearby plain like Ayers Rock and is part of a disturbance caused by an ancient meteorite. Truly spectacular!

We spent the next two nights at Ormiston Gorge. We managed to do the Pound Walk which took about three hours and spent the later hour of the day watching the small rock wallabies coming down to the rock pools for water. Magnificent!

Next day we continued to Alice Springs through the fantastic Macdonnells visiting the ancient Ochre Pit used by generations of Aborigines, Serpenting Gorge and Standley Chasm. It has never occurred to me that these mountains can hold their own with the Great Dividing Range in terms of height with the largest over 5000 feet.

Back in Alice we have been resupplying in readiness for 7-8 days in the bush and not having to use the facilities at Uluru which are expected to be very expensive. We have managed to do the Desert Park just outside the town and a few of the sights in the town. Even managed to go out to an Italian restaurant last night - very civilised! Back on the road tomorrow.

3.
Not much time to type emails out in the outback and this might be a quick one! We are at the Pink Roadhouse at Oonadatta and the others are having a shower after several days on the road.

Last time I wrote we were in Alice from whence we travelled to Palm Valley. We weren't sure whether we could get the van in to the camping ground but it turned out to be a breeze. We first stopped at Hermansberg and did a tour around the historic mission station. Kate had to have some apple strudle after reading Lonely Planet and it was very pleasant!

After setting up camp we travelled the last 4 km into the valley. This turned out to be low gear 4wd work barely creeping over rocky creekbeds. Fred walked back and wasn't far behind us! The valley itself is very beautiful with a species of palm dominating the vegetation. They have only survived in this desert environment because of the geology as water seeps from the rocks here providing year around water.

Next day it was off on the Merenie Loop where we were treated to some of the worst roads we had experienced to date. Fortunately we survived and pulled into Kings Canyon late in the day. Next morning we did the loop walk around the canyon which was spectacular. We looked across at one stage from the northern side and could see people near the edge of a sheer cliff. We thought they were not aware of how they were on top of an overhang. A bit later at the same spot we realised we had been in the same situation on the northern side. Spectacular gorge and well worth the travel (it is quite isolated and there is not much else to see nearby).

Unfortunately on the way back to camp from the gorge I detected a major oil leak under the car. Some bad words were said and I did not want to think what Kate was thinking! We discussed new cars! We found out how the NRMA might help us - $920 for a tow to Ayers Rock. We found a mechanic at the resort who thought it might be okay but wasn't exactly sure! Great help!

The background was that I had detected a small leak in the transfer case in Alice and had replaced the oil which had leaked out. Eventually Fred and I worked out that the oil was leaking from a breather in the transfer case, a further step was we found a second filler plug for the transfer case. Lo and behold I had overfilled the transfer case by using the wrong plug! Should have realised at the time as it took nearly the stated capacity of the case to fill it - as small but vital bit of information which didn't register at the time! Ah my reputation as a mechanic is at an all time low but I don't care - we were both just hugely relieved. (Many apologies made to our faithful Landrover!)

After three days at Kings Canyon over this drama we followed the blacktop to Uluru. We met up with Kate's brother Michael, his wife Sam and children Jack and Ruby, who had flown to Alice from Melbourne for a few days. We had a great couple of days walking around the rock and other walks at Kata Juta (the Olgas). It is not hard to see why the area attracts so many tourists! Michael, Sam and Kate went on a 'Sounds of Silence' dinner under the stars which they all loved! Watching sunset on the Rock with champagne, followed by sumptous dinner and talk by an astronomer! Meanwhile I was being tested for baby sitting duties by very smart six and three year olds - I failed! They ran rings around me!

A highlight of our walk at Kata Juta with the Carrolls was watching a falcon whilst we were having morning tea. We saw the falcon make a couple of swoops before diving vertically from a couple of hundred feet up and hitting a honeyeater or miner ten feet above the ground. Unfortunately for the falcon it did not make a clean hit and whilst knocking the bird out of the sky was unable to grab it before it hit the ground. Immediately a butcherbird dived on it and after some time trying unsuccessfully to finish it off, managed to fly off with it.

So back on the road we headed back to the Stuart Highway turning south to Kuldara. After a pleasant camp in a creek bed about 20 km out of town we revised plans as the track into Finke was unsuitable for us (too sandy for the caravan). So it was south and onto the Oonnadatta Track. Last night we camped about 100km short of Oonadatta beside a dry creek.

That is it so far - not sure of our exact route from here but will let you know in the next email.

4
I think I last wrote at Oonadatta and that was some time ago - at least quite a long distance has been travelled since then! We continued down the Oonadatta track and stayed at Coward Springs for the night and did some bird watching in the afternoon. Coward Springs was memorable for two things - the huge flock of correllas which were roosting nearby and the most boring run - Kate and I ran along the Oonadatta track for about four kilometres - out in a dead straight, flat line and back!!

Coward Springs is part of Anna Station which is part of the Kidman empire and is memorable because it is one of the largest cattle stations in the world being half the size of Victoria.

We continued on next day to Marree. Marree is at the bottom of the Birdsville track and we found out that the Great Australian Cattle Drive was about to finish there on the following Friday. So next day we drove up the Birdsville for about 40 km till we came to a turnoff to the participants camp.

In order to participate in the cattle drive you have to hand over about 2500 of the readies for four or five days in the saddle. As you would imagine for that price you don't sleep in a swag!! We followed a track into the camp and what a camp it was - no hardship here!! I think there were 36 flash looking tents equipped with stretchers and dooners. There were two or three semitrailers with toilet and shower blocks, numerous staff tents and a whole infrastructure for delivering water and disposing of waste. Looked pretty swish to me! I think the participants get driven out each morning to the cattle and driven back at night. Apparently the camp was moved each week.

After a bit of nosing around we found Jody Kruse (granddaughter of the famous Birdsville Track mailman Tom Kruse) who was coordinating the drive. She filled us in on all the details and told us where the cattle and followers were. A few kilometres up the track we found the cattle drive at a halt for lunch. We didn't go too close but suffice to say the tent and surrounding tables gave us the idea that the paying customers were not feasting on cheese sandwiches!

The 400 cattle were neatly arranged in a nice square arrangement mostly taking a rest sitting on the ground. They looked so tame that I think you could have droved them on foot. We waited for half an hour or so but it looked like a long lunch so we moved on. I don't think the paying customers did too much droving as there were plenty of paid staff in attendance.

Next day it was down to Lyndhurst and onto the bitumen to Leigh Creek for reprovisioning! A real supermarket!! The weather was cold and there was a bit of rain about so Jim and Gail decided to call it a day and head for home. The rest of us, Fred, Heather, Kate and me headed back to Lyndhurst and turned right onto the Strezlecki Track heading for Innaminka. We camped that night on the banks of the Frome River - a cold night around the campfire! The highlight was the huge moths (6-8 cm long) which were attracted to the light. Practically had to make a landing strip for them! Some committed suicide into the stir fry I was making in a wok over the fire - fortunately I managed to fish them out. We did wonder how they would taste but noone was game!!

The next night we stayed at Monte Collina bore where there was some good birdlife and continued on passing through cattle country and progressively into dryer areas and the Moomba gas and oil fields. Santos could do a bit on its PR because, apart from one sign overlooking the gas plant there was very little information available. We did find out that there are gas pipelines to Adelaide, Sydney and Canberra, an oil and ethalene (I think!) pipeline to Port Augusta.

Onwards to Innaminka with the weather giving a foretaste of what was to come with strong winds hitting us head on. After inspecting the camps in town we decided to stay a little out of town along the Cooper Creek at Callyamuwa Waterhole which is permanent water. A beautiful spot which was topped off by 15 horses trotting past our camp and going down to the river to drink and graze. We werent's sure whether they were brumbies as they were fine looking horses - suspect they were station horses let loose to graze. Just on dusk a couple of brolgas alighted on the opposite bank to drink - magnificent birds.

That night it bucketted down and it was a fairly soggy camp next morning (22 mm of rain fell). We decided to stay put and go for a walk when an elderly couple towing an off-road caravan came past and asked about the track out. We couldn't help them so they continued on. An hour later the woman came for our help as they were bogged. After a bit of crawling in the mud we managed to drag them out with Fred's trusty Landcruiser. We think they were a bit shaken by the event and they subsequently stayed on and followed us out. They were extremely grateful giving us a prawn trap for catching bait - this of course set off Kate's compulsive fishing behaviour. She ended up catching two fish (I have to put this in!) and Fred and I got none!

A day later we decided to brave the road as more rain was forecast and managed the track out despite some boggy patches (the old couple followed us - the wouldn't have had a chance on the day they started). It quickly became apparent how fast the dirt roads become impassable with any rain - there are few culverts here and all the creeks and drainage lines flow across the roads creating little or in some cases large mini gullys.

Unfortunately we were not able to find out too much about our proposed route to Tibooburra as it was the Monday public holiday and everyone connected with the roads was on holidays. So we decided to head out - we reasoned that we needed to get to the bitumen as soon as possible otherwise we could be trapped for some time. For the first 70-80 km we were fine as the roads were all weather gravel roads built to service the Moomba gas fields. Then we turned onto the dirt/sandy roads and the fun began. To cut a long story short we found ourselves getting further and further onto wet and slippery roads but there was no turning back as the weather looked worse where we had come from. We did diversions, straddled water and climbed along the edges of the road. We finally met someone who was coming through from the other direction who indicated that we could get through as long as we followed their path (which wasn't hard to do).

We decided to take a short cut on one occasion (a bit overconfident it turns out) and Fred went ahead and got through. We charged in but the mud was about 20 cm deep and eventually we ground to a halt. One of the disadvantages of towing a three tonne caravan is that it is wider than the car and we were pushing two lots of wheel tracks through. Out came the tow rope and the statch strap and in a short time we were on the way again with Fred's help.

Later we passed two road trains, each with three trailers stuck in the middle of the road. We wondered about the hundreds of sheep on board but found out later that they were able to get going again and passed through Tibooburra that night. It was a long day!

Next day we were stuck in Tibooburra until 1.30 pm when they opened the road south to Broken Hill. Once again the road was slippery but we were now veterans and there was no further drama.

So the rain has put a stop to our outback travels - all the dirt roads were closed so visiting National Parks was impossible. After a couple of days looking around Broken Hill and subsequently Mildura we headed for Melbourne and Fred and Heather home to Canberra.

This means we will have to go back to try and visit the places we missed - hopefully we will do this before the next drought as we don't want to be drought breakers again. We are intending to stay in Melbourne for a week or so before returning home.