To the West, Bali and the Ningaloo Reef

15 Aug – 29 Sep 02

15 Aug Thursday
Set off at about 1 pm – six weeks off, fantastic. Arrived in Hay after dark at 7pm. Chicken curry cooked the night before for tea and the sounds of Adelaide – Sydney trucks negotiating the nearby roundabout all night. Nice van park with no permanent residents.

16 Aug Friday
Uneventful trip to Adelaide arriving by 4pm in beautiful weather. Geraldine (my sister) and Dick’s house very impressive with a wonderful private courtyard and sunny backyard complete with pool. Very handy to find at the bottom of the Adelaide Hills coming in from Murray Bridge. Lovely meal of chicken, apricots and almonds from the Middle Eastern Cookbook – well done Dick!

17 Aug Saturday
Kate awoke with a sore throat which was to continue for a few days. It didn’t stop the exercise and we went for a light run on Saturday morning through the nearby arboretum at Waite Institute – idillic surroundings! Cumpulsory cappucinos were followed, in the afternoon, by a wander around Glenelg the highlights of which were a large dolphin swimming under us at the marina and a yacht going through the nearby lock. It doesn’t take much to amuse us! Lamb shanks for tea that night – we were being spoilt with the standard of food! Prior to the meal we went to a nearby lovely old pub where Geraldine proceeded to clean out the poker machines and was smart enough to pocket a fair bit of the winnings. Kate made her usual donation.

18 Aug Sunday
Ran to the old quarry with interesting views of Adelaide (50 minutes). On the way back looked over the manor house at Urbreae. We had a pleasant lunch at a pub in the hills which had great food followed by a visit to a bookshop and gallery – the last two by Geraldine and Kate. Dick and I discussed ‘men’s things’! That evening Dick and Geraldine hosted drinks for their friends which was fun. It was a great weekend and nice to catch up with Geraldine, Dick and Andrew. Kate tried valiantly to get Andrew to catch up with Ben in Sydney.

19 Aug Monday
After an early start and one wrong turn we made our way out of Adelaide and headed north to Port Augusta to buy some supplies for the Nullabor. We had lunch further up the road and really felt we were on our way as we passed the scrubby country west of Port Augusta and saw our first emus adjacent to the road. We made Ceduna that night and checked into the caravan park. We had a pleasant walk on the pier where we got into conversation with a retired chap who it turns out has a caravan in the Twofold Bay Caravan Park where we have spent many a Christmas holiday. He told us the park had changed ownership. Marks on the pier proved there were plenty of squid for the catching. The camping ground was like a concentration camp with high fences and digital locks on the gates!

20 Aug Tuesday
A big day of driving all the way to Norseman, about 1200 km. One of the highlights was Kate overtaking a road train – I think we only passed about three on the whole trip. One of the caravan tyres began loosing pressure – we pumped it up once but it continued to deflate till we eventually decided to replace it with the spare. The last hour or so into Norseman was a little anxious as the kangaroos decided to give us a guard of honour. Fortunately the excellent driving lights came into their own as we were at least able to see them and slow down in time. The Norseman caravan park was quite full with lots of retirees heading back to Melbourne on the last lap of their trip around Australia.

21 Aug Wednesday
Kate’s birthday and another day of driving. The road into Perth is not as pleasant as the rest of the trip. After the long straights of the Nullabor it seemed we were driving around corners all the time. Eventually we hit the outskirts of Perth and we turned right to Gingin. The traffic was relatively heavy but once out of the suburbs we had a clear run. Rachel was having a riding lesson on the vast lawn area in front of their house on a beautiful evening when we arrived. Peter (my brother) and Leanne looked well and we had an enjoyable night with Stewart (our nephew who has been working on the farm on his way around Australia) as well.

22 Aug Thursday
It was an eye-opener to see the changes on the property since last we were there. The new vineyard is enormous and the work to establish it impressive. Final planting was underway with a gang of a dozen people productively employed. As well as Stewart, Peter had other casual workers working for him and we met Stumpy and Ben Treasure (a member of the family who own the farm). Did a bit of moving sheep and cattle as well as a bit of tractor work spraying weeds in the vineyard.

23 Aug Friday
More farmwork. Chasing sheep and cattle. Chinese with Geoff and Francis Overheu in Peter and Leane’s kitchen – great night, very noisy, great fun.

24 Aug Saturday
Stewart gave us a lift to Perth airport for the trip to Bali. The flight was very pleasant and I think it only took 3.5 hours. Picked up by the tour company and we were given the hard sell about possible tours before we even cleared the airport carpark. The humidity was a bit overpowering at first. Our hotel was down a back alley and looked quite pleasant once we were inside the walled garden. Nice pool. The room however was a little disappointing – the shower flooded the bathroom as the drain was blocked up. Airconditioning was pretty ordinary as well. Had tea in a pleasant nearby Mexican restaurant – Café Loco - recommended by the Lonely Planet book

25 Aug Sunday
Went for a run on the beach early in the morning – lots of people walking and enjoying the cool of the morning before the heat of the sun. Changed rooms – the shower didn’t flood but the airconditioning wasn’t any better – basically didn’t work. Pool was very pleasant however. Walked down to Kuta. Lunch in local Balinese restaurant and we had our usual Nasi Goreng. Evening meal at another restaurant out of the Lonely Planet – great food and cheap.

26 Aug Monday
Lazy day, shopping, lazing around the pool and eating. I couldn’t stray too far from the toilet as the Bali belly had struck.

27 Aug Tuesday
Went for a run to Kuta and back. We didn’t get up early enough so the sun was pretty fierce on the way back and the humidity didn’t help. Took a taxi to Dempasar to a department store on Leeann’s recommendation – bliss, we didn’t have to bargain. Shopping, shopping, shopping….!

28 Aug Wednesday
Drove to Ubud. Although we were getting used to the traffic it payed to look out the windows to the side and not in front if you wanted to enjoy the trip. Tahaman Rahasia (the Secret Garden) was a little hard to find. We were to find out that noone else knew where it was as every tour pick-up was preceded by a phone call for directions. Tahman Rahasia was something else. We were greeted by Beth, an expat American, were given a smoothie and met all the friendly young staff. Seemed to be lots of staff and we were the only guests. Walked into town through the padi. Saw the women’s workforce – carrying sand to less accessible places in baskets on their heads. Very heavy work. Beautiful dinner at Taman Rahasia.

29 Aug Thursday
Mountain biking. A bit of a joke really. We were picked up from the hotel after the compulsory phone call to find out where Taman Rahasia was. Through beautiful padi and villages up one of the main roads to the company’s assembly point for the mountain bikes and white water canoeing. Met up with some Kiwis who were going to the elephant park after the ride. Another half hour’s drive and we were at the start of the ride. The six of us had three guides – one at the front, one in the middle and another as tail end Charlie. The bikes were good but you could nearly have done it without a chain as we were mostly going downhill. The guides were very good pointing out features of the local agricultural enterprises which were mostly rice based. We were fortunate to be delayed by a cremation procession – not fortunate for the dead person however. The procession consisted of a five metre square platform made of bamboo poles on which was a Brahman bull complete with penis and testicles! The platform was carried by about 30 young men who proceeded to spin it around and dip and sway with it – all part of the ritual. We were told they had been partaking of the local beer on their arduous trip up the hill from their home village. All the women in the village where we stopped were dressed in black for the occasion. After the bull passed the body was carried by on an altar on a similar platform carried by about 20 men. It is not kosher to watch the burning of the body so we continued our trip, eventually arriving back at the company’s assembly point. The Kiwis departed and we had lunch chatting to the Australian operations manager of the company. He has over 500 local staff running white water rafting, mountain biking, elephant park, bird park tours and whatever else. Kate managed to get free trips out of him on the following days, to the elephant and bird parks, before we finished lunch.

30 Aug Friday
White water rafting. Picked up in a mini bus and transported, along with another Aussie through the rice fields to the assembly point. Down hundreds of steps to the river and into a raft. The trip was probably fairly gentle by white water rafting standards but the scenery was great (Stewart had recommended it). Beautiful lunch afterwards at the company’s restaurant. We were then transported in a mini bus for 40 minutes through various villages which specialised in various crafts e.g. one was full of turned wood artifacts, to the elephant park. It seemed very well done with the elephants taking people around the park and through the nearby village. We didn’t ride them but were given a tour culminating in Kate sitting on the elephant for a photo. Interesting day!

31 Aug Saturday
Hired bikes and rode in the traffic which was a little daunting at first. Fortunately, although chaotic and close to you, we rarely felt threatened. There is very little aggression on the roads which is a refreshing change from Canberra. We rode to visit a site where ancient carvings had been made on a rock face. We were conned by a very persistent guide who wanted to show us the world. Eventually we got back to the bikes and unfortunately I had lost my key to the lock. Much searching followed and finally the guide found the key on the pathway to the carvings. We wondered whether we had been pick pocketed but we gave him the benefit of the doubt and gave him a $2 Australian coin which he was going to melt down for a ring (after telling us he was a poor student who was having trouble surviving).

1 Sep Sunday
Trip to the Bird park for zippo. Interesting but it was a bit sad to see such small cages. The driver took us to a silver workshop on the way home – different standard of living there. Unfortunately no bargains but we did manage to pick up two sets of earrings.

2 Sep Monday
Picked up early to catch the ferry to Lembogin Island. We were booked into the Hai Tide Huts. We snorkelled, then booked in and later did a bike ride around part of the island. We saw seaweed harvesting, bought gifts and watched a huge kite being launched. A characteristic of Bali is the number of kites which are flown particularly in the late afternoon when the consistent wind comes in. jTea on the beach – fantastic setting.

3 Sep Tuesday
Lazed around most of the morning after a breakfast of banana pancakes. Caught the ferry back and encountered huge seas. A barge was being towed through them and seemed to be in trouble but we got by it even if one wave caught us on the port beam and wallowed the boat in a very uncomfortable way. Off the ferry and to the airport, dropped bags then in to Kuta for a meal before returning to the airport to wait for the plane which departed at 2 am. Pretty uncomfortable at the airport waiting but Kate managed to find a few more bargains to get rid of the "loose change" – about $10. Lovely airport staff refused Aussie money and gave Kate her rattan tissue box.

4 Sep Wednesday
Into Perth airport at 6 am after a total of about 2 hours broken sleep. Peter picked us up and back to the farm where Kate disappeared into the caravan for a kip. I went out to work on the farm and quite enjoyed the day fixing the pivot irrigator. Also repaired the roof of the caravan as it had leaked whilst we were away. A bit more sealant did the trick. By 8 pm that night I was falling asleep at the table in the kitchen.

5 Sep Thursday
More farmwork – sheep and cattle – relieved on the tractor spraying in the vineyard over lunch. Kate went for a run (10km).

6 Sep Friday
Perth/Freemantle. We set off for Perth for the day visiting the Ellross caravan factory. Spent a couple of hours at the factory speaking to the owner about off road caravans and inspecting several vans owned by Dutch people. We also saw his large goose neck caravan – very impressive. On Friday night we met up with Geoff and Francis Overheu at their flat in North Perth and had tea with them in a seafood restaurant at Northbridge. Then drove back to Gingin – grateful for the good driving lights.

7 Sep Saturday
Horse of the year contest for Rachel in Perth. Lots of expensive horses, horse floats and cars. Became instant experts on judging horses. We could tell which horses had make-up (all of them) and which had false tails (most of them). I made the comment to Rachel that it was nice to be around quiet horses compared to the race horses that frequented the streets around Mentone when I was growing up. Those race horses were all extremely skittish. Rachel’s comment was "not quiet just drugged to the eyeballs"! Rachel looked like a real horsewoman – which of course she is!

8 Sep Sunday
Drove to Wongan Hills for the grand final of the Aussie Rules that Stewart was playing in. Certainly very impressive facilities for a country town – the football oval’s turf would have done credit to the MCG. Shows that at times wheat belt towns in good areas have had some rich ratepayers or benefactors. Gingin won the reserves in which Stewart was playing and subsequently the firsts. Celebrations would continue in Gingin for a week! We decided to take a look around town whilst the firsts were playing. We toured the local museum which was very interesting. We could see from photos how the local lake had deteriorated. In the industrial area we counted 12 brand new monster headers for wheat harvesting – must have been worth hundreds of thousands each.
9 Sep MondayAfter Peter put a tube in our deflating tyre we set off northwards up the Brand highway. Geraldton was the first town – seemed a long way from anywhere but a thriving feeling. Bought a rod and reel at Cash Converters. Decided, after we had gone past the first turnoff, that we would go to Kalbarri. On the road in we blew a caravan tyre and completely destroyed it. Fortunately we found a tyre place open and were able to buy a new one. I guess after blowing two tyres on the caravan I now know the importance of correct inflation. I started at 35psi when we first got the van, increased to 40psi after blowing the first tyre last year and am now running them at 45psi. I guess it is a lot of weight on two tyres – makes me enthusiastic to get tandem wheels on the next van. We watched the sun go down from Red Bluff – first time this trip over the Indian Ocean. Rissotto for tea.

10 Sep Tuesday
We went for a run first up and found another caravan park looking straight out at the estuary. Later we rode south along the bike path – lots of lizards sunning themselves. Found another pleasant caravan park and had coffee there. We didn’t go to the wildflower centre (this is for Kate’s benefit!). We did however go snorkelling and saw some very large taylor. On the way back we checked out the sports store and bought some fishing gear and a new mask for Kate. Later we managed to lose what we had bought in trying to catch the aforementioned taylor. Needless to say we caught no fish. We got talking to English neighbours in the caravan park who had an 18 foot Bushtracker (Michael and Elizabeth). We got a guided tour and were very impressed. They had everything – the Rolls Royce job. They had travelled across the top and done the Gibb River Road. The inside (and outside) showed no sign of the tough roads it had travelled on. Very impressive and beautiful inside). Kalbarri is a beautiful place and we could easily have spent a week there.

11 Sep Wednesday
Next morning we continued north and although low on petrol I assumed we would find a fuel station shortly after we got back on the highway. By the time we got back on the highway the low fuel light was on and I discovered we had about 120 km to the next roadhouse. Sadly 50 km short of the Billabong Roadhouse we ran out of fuel. I hitched a ride to Billabong with some Perth people headed for Exmouth. Kate made preparations in case the outback murderer stopped. I hitched a ride back with some retired people heading back to Perth. The round trip took 1.5 hours. We were worried about how to get the motor going again but Kate had read the detailed procedures in the manual and within a couple of minutes we were on our way. After a good day’s drive we decided to stop at a rest area along with three other caravans. Later a couple of other vans joined us. The sunset was great – we saw about 15 brolgas heading up the nearby creek. In the morning we saw the same birds returning and landing across the other side of the creek. The sunset was great and the sunrise even better and the camp had cost nothing.

12 Sep Thursday
Drove the final 80 km into Coral Bay (Ningaloo Reef) and managed to get a prime spot in the caravan park. Beautiful spot and it wasn’t long before we were in snorkelling over the coral about 30 metres out from the shore. Arranged a snorkelling trip for the next day. Rode the bikes around the town which didn’t take long and later managed to bog the Landrover in soft sand. Let the tyres down and got going again easily. Great to be able to pump up the tyres with our new ARB pump.

13 Sep Friday
Unfortunately the captain of the boat was crook so we eventually went out on another boat to snorkel on the outer reef. The weather had been blowing a gale and it wasn’t all that pleasant however the fish were great and we even managed to swim with a turtle. The second stop wasn’t quite as good and the wind was very strong. But it was a very enjoyable trip and well worth the money.

14 Sep Saturday
Left Coral Bay early heading south and the weather was deteriorating rapidly. We eventually were driving through heavy rain. Kate was determined to use a free roadside camping area. We looked at one but it was a little exposed and continued on. Following directions from the free camping book which Kate had bought in Gingin we found a very quiet beachside location – noone else was camping as the weather was appalling (location – a bit south of Dongara). We were very cosy in our van and slept very well.

15 Sep Sunday
Travelled along the coastal route stopping at Cervantes. Made it back to Peter and Leane’s in the afternoon to find the previous day’s storms had caused many blackouts in Perth and that the power was still off at Gingin. Seeing the farm was highly dependent on power it wasn’t very pleasant. Water pressure is provided by electric pumps – toilets, washing etc. We used woks over gas burners to cook on the veranda.

16 Sep Monday
Moved to Geoff and Francis’ place in the afternoon after moving sheep in the morning. Their house is like one out of House and Garden with sweeping views across bushland with no sign of human existence.

17 Sep Tuesday
Ran down to the farm (10 km) – fencing with Stewart. Later Peter gave us the full farm tour whilst determing whether it was time to water the vines. Dinner at Geoff and Francis’s place – Kate cooked fish salad and sticky date pudding! Open fire – great night!

18 Sep Wednesday
Rode down to the farm while Kate ran down later – after driving to the front gate to avoid the five horses which tended to race towards humans expecting carrots. We rode back to the farm on the motorbike later which was fun. Drove down to the coast block Peter leases from the Shire and repaired the fence to prevent the cattle crossing the river – great fun!

19 Sep Thursday
The first day of shearing had begun and we had a bit of time to watch the action before leaving. Two shearers were going to do 400-500 odd sheep in two days. One shearer had a kelpie cross that could practically talk when it came to sheep. Boy a good dog can save a lot of hard work when it comes to moving sheep! Finally set off at about 1100 hrs across country to Bindoon through wheat belt country and onwards to hit the highway at Merredin. It is impressive how much tree planting is going on in some parts but depressing to see how much salination is occuring. We then travelled on to Southern Cross for a night in a campground – friendly folk at the campground even had a camp fire for the grey nomads to have a chat around. We forwent the pleasure. We were at the back of the campground but could still hear the trucks passing all night.

20 Sep Friday
Left early and visited Kalgoorlie - it would be good to spend a little more time there. We went to the mining museum but didn’t have time to do the tour. Travelled on and stopped for lunch at Norseman. After lunch continued on and eventually stopped at a roadside resting place about 100 km along the 145 km stretch of dead straight road. There were two other vehicles camped there when we arrived and about five by nightfall. Collected firewood and found an old well – must have been some sort of habitation there in the old days. After tea sat by the fire – very pleasant.

21 Sep Saturday
Next morning a look around with the binoculars showed why there was so many roadkill kangaroos – there were a number of large mobs around. We left early and continued along the road listening to talking books. The highlight of the day was stopping at the head of the bight at the Aboriginal park. We were able to see six whales from the platforms erected on the cliffs. One mother and calf were swimming slowly just below the cliffs. It was a little harder to find other travellers stopped for the night beside the road as the traffic had thinned and we were now in the wheatbelt. Eventually we found a roadside stop near Bookabie where two other caravans had set up. We joined them and set up the obligatory fire.

22 Sep Sunday
We travelled to Streaky Bay next morning, set up camp then headed south to Point Labet about 50 km south of the town. On a platform from the cliff we were able to look down on a colony of sea lions – the only mainland colony. We thought it was like a wildlife documentary and watched them for an hour or so. Gradually made our way back to camp looking at all the bays and inlets on the way. Tea in the pub.

23 Sep Monday
Next day Streaky Bay to Murray Bridge – busy through Adelaide. We camped next to the Murray River and inspected all the house boats in the Marina.

24 Sep Tuesday
Travelled on to Bordertown (birthplace of Bob Hawke) for morning tea. Saw white kangaroos in an enclosure adjoining the show grounds on the side of the highway. Interesting place. Further on at Horsham we had a late lunch and decided to continue to the Melbourne instead of a day in the Grampians. Dropped in on Molly at Ballarat and spent a couple of hours with her. Finally arriving in Melbourne at about 8.30 pm.

25 Sep Wednesday
Car washing, inspection of Tricia’s house. Kate shopping with Margaret and Trish.

26 Sep Thursday
Checked the Landrover in for a service at Port Melbourne (2000 km overdue). I rode back along the Yarra to North Balwyn before returning to pick it up at lunchtime. If you plan your route you can get around on low trafficked routes and on some of the main roads in cycle lanes.

27 Sep Friday
Checked out Trakmaster caravans at Bayswater. Impressive set up and very helpful people. We spent about an hour talking to them and they gave us a video to take home. On to Mum’s place and checked out her new Honda. After lunch with Leonie and Anne we had a look at some caravans near Seaford followed by a visit to East Malvern to inspect Anne’s new house. She has some work ahead of her when she moves in October! We hope to help over Christmas and subsequently when we have our freedom! We had an evening meal at Doyle’s overlooking Mordialloc Creek catching up with Steve, Daniel (back from two years in London), Leonie and Anne. Justin also dropped by to see us.

28 Sep Saturday
Grand final of the AFL. Ran early then shopping. Miserable day – watched the Grand Final. Noodles for tea at Trish’s.

29 Sep Sunday
Easy run back to Canberra. Left with a full tank and the low fuel light came on just before Yass. Arrived home at 3 pm and work tomorrow – only 19 work weeks to go!

Vehicle statistics
Total fuel 1781 litresDistance 12 628 kmEconomy 14.1 litres/100kmTotal cost of fuel $1762