On the Road - North

3 May - 12 Jul 2006

1.
For those of you who don't know we are on the road north to escape the Canberra winter till mid July. We haven't had many opportunities to write emails so here we go.

The trip so far has been blessed with lovely weather. We drove straight through to Forster on the first day - much easier than previously with a new tollway out the back of Liverpool. We only had about 7 km of surburban driving and the rest is now freeway! Stayed in Forster for four days and had the boat in the water for two of them. Unfortunately lots of little fish but nothing that we could keep. Saw lots of dolphins and ate fish and chips for tea. Beautiful!

Then it was on to South West Rocks for a couple of days. Once again lovely warm weather so we did some bike riding, on one occasion up to the lighthouse which is truly spectacular. We stayed in a lovely protected National Park camp ground. During our stay we got talking to local fisherpersons who were waiting for the mullet runs - more of that later.
Our next stop was Iluka at the mouth of the Clarence River. Once again we stayed in a National Parks camp with lovely views out to the bays to the north. We fished and got a couple of small ones but nothing to keep. The mullet were running here and we purchased some from the fisherman who was unloading them at the local fishing cooperative - shovelling them out of the back of a ute!. A bloke in front of us filled an esky but we only had a plastic bag and were on our bikes at the time. We didn't know how much to offer so Kate gave him $10 and he wanted to give us more than we could handle. Turns out the bloke with the esky only paid $10 as well! Unfortunately I had to clean the fish which is never fun but I am getting better at it. Now got 3-4 meals in the freezer!

The mullet apparently come out of the rivers at this time of year and congregate in large schools making their ways along the beaches to spawn (I think). The fishermen wait on the beaches for the schools which can be distinguished by bubbling on the surface and the odd fish leaping out of the water. They are very difficult to catch with line as they are absorbed with reproducing and not hungry. The fishermen take small boats out through the surf dragging nets and encircle the school and pull it to the beach. The fish are skittish so mostly they use row boats in order to avoid frightening the fish with a motor. Unfortunately we didn't manage to see the boats in action which was a shame.

We did a ride along the beach at Iluka going for 10 km before turning back ( a great ride but about the only one available apart from the main road out to the highway). We could have gone as far again as there didn't seem to be an end to the beach. Saw more dolphins.

Next we drove on to the Gold Coast to catch up with my sister Therese. Did some work on Therese's backyard constructing a retaining wall - I am getting plenty of practice after Barb's place! Looked good and she was delighted. Caught up with her sons and their partners and children. The kids are gorgeous and this time opened up to us. We had a lovely time.
After leaving Therese's we stopped at Bushtrackers on the Friday for some repairs. Had to purchase new batteries as one had collapsed. We had a water leak repaired and the CD player as well. James Blunt is now echoing through the neighbourhood! Thank you Julia!! Very satisfying to have the job done by professionals!!

On to Gympie to catch up with the Ryan/Lewis household - very pleasant weekend including a trip to Eumundi markets for Kate and a trip to Bundaberg for me to watch Conor play a practice match for the area soccer rep team. Conor is the goalie and acquitted himself admirably against an older team. Also caught up with an ANU colleague who lives nearby in what he calls a rustic setting. He lives at the top of a valley and has planted his 120 acre farm to trees. I think he knows everyone of them by name. He lives a reclusive life emerging to do the occasional teaching job and to get supplies. We did a walk around his farm which now carries about 6 cows and hundreds of trees including some excellent red cedars.
We are now in Bundaberg, actually on the coast about 15 km out of town at Mon Repos, a turtle sanctuary. No turtles now - wrong time of year- but we have been catching some fish off the beach. A fellow caravaner gave us the tip to catching whiting off the beach and we have had a meal of small fish with some more caught this morning.

Had a cold morning today with the temperature dropping to 7 degrees overnight - might have to move further north. Toured the Ginger Beer factory this morning - we thought we were going on the Bundy Rum tour!! Spent half an hour talking to the local women guides and having a lovely time drinking about 8 varieties of ginger beer and other soft drinks. Don't think we will worry about the Rum tour now.

2.
We have made it to Port Douglas! Caught up with our nephew Stewart Sowden last night. He is enjoying living here and his work on a new six star resort. We had a quick look last night and it was awesome! The pool is probably 100 metres long in a L shape with lots of apartments opening directly onto it. Prices were pretty health too - over $250 per night!
After leaving Bundaberg (after doing a tour of the distillery which was very interesting!) we headed north to the town of 1770. This is just north of Agnes Waters which we were told will be the next major development similar to the Gold Coast or the Sunshine Coast. It certainly has all the natural beauty at the moment - hopefully this will not change as much of the coastline has been preserved as National Park. We camped on the inlet in a delightful park and enjoyed sunsets over distant mountains. We were told about an inlet further along in Eumbula National Park where we could launch the boat for some estuary fishing. Fortunately or unfortunately we had to negotiate a rough track of about 15 km to get there and for much of the time we were the only people there.

Decided to fish off the bank of the outlet and we had some reasonable success catching quite a few smaller fish. The inlet was alive with activity with lots of bait fish being chased by small barracuda, one of which we managed to catch.

The peace and quiet was broken mid morning by the sound of a big diesel motor coming along the beach. Around the corner came one of those ex army amphibian vehicles. We used to call them Army Ducks but they have some other name now. They are a tourist attraction here and you can pay for an all-day tour along the beaches and across the estuaries. Needless to say we must have been the attraction as they watched us fishing for a while before moving off across the estuary, negotiating the water with ease. They must have permission to drive along the beach because noone else is allowed to in this National Park.

The fishing was so much fun we decided to go back the next day for more. Unfortunately we didn't have as much luck but it was most enjoyable.
Our next stop was Yeppon which is on the coast east of Rockhampton. Like many of the Nth Qld beaches there are big tides and very wide sand flats at low tide. One of the reasons for stopping here was to visit the wetlands north of the Japanese Resort just north of the town. It used to have a Japanese name but has now been taken over by the more familiar names to us - I think it is now Rydges. So at low tide next day we rode northwards for 16 km on the beach being passed by cars of fishermen or surfers. It was a very pleasant ride with the south easterly trade winds behind us. We came back on the road through part of the wetlands unfortunately not seeing many birds.

By this time it was past morning tea time and the resort was drawing us in (or one member of the party was winging about coffee and I don't drink it - I don't think I need to be more specific!). After a slight altercation induced by low blood sugar of the author our bikes were duly locked up and we proceeded to have coffee on the terrace looking out over the beautiful gardens. Unfortunately the locker of the bikes forgot to check whether he had the appropriate key for the lock and upon completion of coffee break discovered said key was back in the caravan.
After much self flagulation and attempts to shift blame to the female member of the party plans were formulated to 1. hitch hike back to the caravan park, 2. pay for the bus trip back, 3. run back along the beach etc.

The adventurous member of the party discovered that the bikes were only locked together and not to an immovable object and that the lock might have sufficient length to ride both bikes back side by side. Second member was adamant that she was not falling off and that it couldn't be done. After further discussion the party moved to the beach to negotiate further, after all it was only 8 km along the beach to the campsite. After still further discussion and a couple of false starts it was proved that it is possible to ride two bikes locked together with a cable lock for 8 km without falling off providing the party worked as a smooth team. Unfortunately we couldn't take a photo to prove it but it can be done!

That afternoon we drove back in the car to find the wetlands missed in the aborted morning bicycle trip. We failed. Too many tracks, no maps and approaching darkness means we decided to beat a retreat before getting lost - as we did last time we were here! Later we were told that the wetlands had reduced considerably as the golf courses were using much of the water for irrigation. Next time we will take a tour!! Or get a map!

Onwards to Mackay, actually a bit further on to Seaforth, which is near Cape Hillsborough. We stayed at another lovely council caravan park on the water, this one without any power. We picked the brains of the local proprietor of the fishing/tackle shop and next day launched our boat in the nearby estuary. There followed a very enjoyable afternoon of fishing the highlight of which was a large flathead about 45 cm long. We also caught sole (flounder in the south), small bream and on the top-of-the-tide grunter. Next day we tried again but were not so successful. We were finally put off by a local fisherman who mentioned we shouldn't be sitting on the side of our boat. Upon asking why we were told there where a few swimming logs just upstream. Funny how the local fishing shop didn't mention them. We took a spin upstream at speed but didn't see any and were not sure whether the local bloke just didn't want us catching his fish or whether there were really big crocs around. Needless to say it put us off the fishing and the boat hasn't been back in the water since!

Next stop was Townsville where Kate's mother has joined us for a week or so. Up until Townsville the weather has been warm and sunny but now we struck warm and overcast and we have not seen much of the sun since. After doing the sights of Townsville including the amazing museum we moved northwards to just north of Mission Beach.

This area was recently devastated by a huge cyclone and the effects are immediately apparent. Although it happened over two months ago there are many houses still with tarpaulins drapped over the roof and many business have closed. The council caravan park was washed away in part and the most of the trees have been stripped of leaves. Most are reshooting but there is not much over 6 metres in height! One coconut tree was bent over so that the trunk looked like a quarter circle!

The plan is now to spend the weekend at Port Douglas (we couldn't miss the Sunday markets could we!) then head for Cooktown via the inland route. We have never been there and we have heard that there is now a bitumen road for the complete journey. Of course the dirt wouldn't have worried us but, with the new road, it won't be long before every man and his dog is there! See it before it is overcommercialised I say!

3.
Sunday morning in beautiful Lucinda which is on the mainland just south of Hinchinbrook Island. Weather reasonable - 23 degrees and overcast. I guess we cannot complain as it is still warm however we haven't had a realy sunny day since leaving Townsville.

The trip to Cooktown was a snack - the new bitumen road makes it a breeze and we were surprised at the amount of traffic on the road. Turns out it was the Monday of the long weekend and the last day of a festival at Cooktown. When we got there the place and people looked like they were having a recovery day after a big night!

Cooktown wasn't what I expected at all. I think I had visions of coconut palm lined beaches looking out towards the Barrier Reef. Instead the township is built on an estuary and looks to the west. The seaward side can only be seen on one relatively small beach. Nevertheless it is a beautiful spot and reminiscent of the feeling of Cairns about 20 years ago when the airport terminal was a tin shed. The early signs are there however with property values rising.

Our stay and activities were limited by the gale force winds which prevailed for the three days we stopped there. We are now experts on Cook's time there after visiting the museum which is in an old convent. The display is excellent and I never thought that reading Cook's and Bank's diaries could be so interesting. I guess being there and seeing the sights brought it alive.

The weather meant we couldn't go out in the boat or in any other boat for a trip and at night the wind howled! One night the awning came down - I am not sure how as it was still intact with the support poles somehow turned through 90 degrees and running horizontally. I still can't figure out how it could get in that position. We were woken by a particularly vicious wind gust and felt the awning going down. Needless to say there were many others outside fixing tent poles and awnings on caravans and camping trailers.

We did a few trips to headlands and on one occasion to a lighthouse accessed by a 4WD track. The wind was so strong we weren't game to let Margaret (Kate's Mum) out of the car as I am sure she would have been blown off the hill. On Grassy Hill above the town we had a similar experience and have the photos to prove it - fortunately she was able to hang onto a convenient railing.

So we travelled back to Port Douglas for a few days and to catch up with my Mum, Elizabeth and Matt who were staying there for a week. We all had breakfast in the rainforest or more accurately in the aviary and it was voted a great success. If you haven't been there it is a large aviary containing many of the local land and water birds. After breakfast we were able to walk through the various rainforest and water habitats and get up close to the birds which would only be seen at a distance in the wild. The highlight was a nesting pair of jabirus - we even saw the change of shift as one bird vacated the nest whilst we watched.

After the compulsory return visit to the Sunday markets at Port Dougas we travelled to Cairns in time for Margaret to catch the direct flight to Melbourne and a return to the cold. We enjoyed her company and hoped she had a good holiday.

In Cairns we found a reasonable caravan park quite close to town. The managers had a Bushtracker caravan so we had VIP treatment. After our previous visit with Ben some years ago this was quite pleasant. At that time we stayed in a "resort" caravan park which had everything we didn't need and charged accordingly. It was also a long way out of town. This time we spent a lot of our time wandering around on our bikes and enjoyed the bike-friendly roads. Perhaps the only downside was the backpackers who gathered to watch the soccer matches on a TV in the campers kitchen. It was fine for the Aussies match but we got woken up one morning by cheers as the Poms scored a goal. Judging by the cheers the Poms would have won 2-0. We realised the two goals scored by Sweden were greeted with silence!

We managed to squeeze in a day on the reef on perhaps the only (partially) sunny day in weeks. The snorkelling was reasonable but ruined a bit by the 20 knot winds which produced a vigorous chop on the surface. One older person broke her leg getting onto the glass bottomed boat and had to be flown to hospital by helicopter - so I wasn't exaggerating about the chop!

So on our journey south we have arrived here at Lucinda which has the longest pier for loading sugar on ship in the world. It is nearly 6 km long but doesn't look it - shows you how difficult it is to estimate distance over water. There is an old loading facility nearby which has been converted to a fishing platform and we have been using it unsuccessfully to date. The water is reasonably calm right on the high or low tide but in between it is a raging torrent as the water rushes between the mainland and Hitchinbrook Island to the north. I guess a lot of water has to pass through the passage to the large area behind the island each tide. It is therefore impossible to hold the bottom with bait at this time.

We went for a longer bike ride yesterday through the nearby cane fields back towards Halifax and Ingham. I am fascinated by the cane train railway system. Next to us in the campground is the huge storage facility for sugar used prior to export and from here the narrow gauge rail network stretches through the canefields to the various mills and from them out to the farms. It is extensive and I understand stretches over 40 km to the south. It is an amazing infrastructure - It would be great to make a bicycle to run on rails to explore the network if only it was allowed!

We have of course been watching the football and enjoying it immensely. I have discovered I am married to a soccer fanatic, or perhaps an Australian soccer fanatic! I fell asleep during the first game and was severely chastised for it! So we have had the alarm on and been awake at various times of the night enjoying it immensely. Parks must have adequate reception before we can stop there! So the big test on Monday night! Go the Socceroos!

4.
We are now on the Gold Coast staying with Therese again - thankfully she is not getting sick of us yet!

I think we last wrote at Lucinda. It is definitely a place we will return to. We had a lovely time there with fruitless fishing but great bike riding and a very pleasant climate.

I might have mentioned the sugar loading wharf which stretches out 5.6 km or 5.8 km from the shore. It is a remarkable structure for a number of reasons. Primarily it has to withstand cyclonic conditions and it got me thinking as we fished nearby on an old wharf. Basically the structure is an enclosed conveyor belt with a road alongside. The enclosure is all done with corrugated iron which has probably been specially treated to withstand the salt and is attached with bolts on every second corrugation. I started to think about just how many sheets of corrugated iron to cover three or four sides of a 2 metre wide enclosure going for 5.6 km, then about 50 bolts per sheet ..... the mind boggles. Wouldn't have minded having the contract for supplying that amount of steel and bolts. This of course doesn't take into account the hundreds of pylons supporting the structure nor the amount of concrete and reinforcing comprising the road. An amazing structure!

The wharf reminded me of "fieldwork" training I did during my national service days. We were told that it is very hard to estimate distance over water, the reason being there are few visual clues to go on. To look at this wharf it is difficult to believe it is so long - it looks long, maybe a kilometre or so but 5.6?? The reason it is so long is of course because the water is so shallow and at low tide we rode out along a sandbar which ran parallel to the wharf. I think we got about one kilometre out and the wharf end seemed no closer!

After leaving Lucinda we put in a hard day of travelling before stopping near Gladstone. Once again I was astonished by the size of the operations here. We only drove through but managed to glimpse the aluminium refinery, export coal facilities, power staion and on our run on the following morning the oil refinery. Couldn't stay to have a good look around so next time!

Another day of travelling and we arrived at Rainbow Beach or at least 10 km from Rainbow Beach at Inskip Point. This is a very popular spot for Queenslanders we were told - at Christmas and Easter there is a sea of blue tarpaulins stretching for 3-4 km through the sandunes along the beach on this narrow isthmus. Being school holidays there were quite a few people about - despite the fact that the only facilties available were toilet blocks. It is a very sandy area so we did a careful reconnaisance before deciding on a campsite. We ended up having a bit of trouble trying to back in so we let some air out of the tyres before coming in a different way easily. Amazing what flat tyres can do on sand.

Had a lovely time here watching the passing traffic on the beach - main thoroughfare to Fraser Island - and the ferries transporting them across the narrow sea passage to the island. We rode the beach ourselves back to Rainbow Beach for supplies. We had no luck fishing the beach but more success in the Zodiac.

We tied up to a buoy in a narrow part of the inlet behind the isthmus and had a great time as the fish were biting ferociously. We had trouble hooking them at first and spent a lot of time feeding them. Eventually we got the hand of it and landed some good fish - we think the locals call them sweep. And then the big one! Well, actually the one that got away! Not sure what it was but it managed to tow the boat around a bit and take plenty of line from my reel before snapping the line. Wish I'd seen it! So we had two days of fun and several feeds of fish!

So now a few days here and back to the cold. We have some preparations to do before heading over to the UK to see Ben, leaving at the end of the month.

Before finishing I should say we have been fascinated by a particular bird whilst travelling North Queensland. It is called a thick knee or some call them curlews. They are probably best known for the hideous screams which punctuate the nights in the north. They stand around during the day well camoflaged under low shrubbery and are not hard to find as they are happy to inhabit suburban gardens near the coast. They have huge eyes which are an obvious advantage at night time. They transform at night time from the street corner dropout to road runner. Around the campground at night time they seem to think they are invisible to us and chase insects rapidly across the ground running between the caravans and tents. We have yet to see them scream their call - maybe next time up north!